For some reason, these expensive, bleached slabs of concrete manage to take over the front of our houses. But a new crop of concrete stains that you can apply yourself can help turn that bland and ugly driveway into a beautiful and bold front-yard statement.

Jane tip: Pay close attention when choosing the type of stain. (For this project, we used a water-based stain from a company called Americrete.)

Acid-based stains are more complicated to apply but generally produce richer and deeper color variations. Water-based or acrylic stains are easier and safer to work with but can look opaque and one-dimensional due to the lack of chemical reaction.

Beware of film-forming stains, paints or sealants that do not react with the chemicals in the concrete nor permeate the pores; they simply cover over it and will not wear as well.

Step 1: Measure the square footage of concrete so you can buy the right amount of stain. To do this, measure the length by the width (don't forget any small areas to the side). Buy enough stain to cover, keeping in mind that if you're using a multilayer, accented approach as we did, you won't need full coverage for accent coats.

Step 2: Clean the concrete surface with a degreasing cleaning product (you can buy a specific degreasing concrete solution from a hardware store) and ensure it is clear of any debris.

Staining supplies


This challenging project takes two to three days after power washing the drive.

Tools:

• Measuring tape

• Plastic garden sprayer (all parts must be nonmetallic)

• Push broom

• Power washer (rented)

• High-pressure, low-volume sprayer and compressor (rented)

• Brushes or sponges for smaller areas

• Paint roller and pan

Supplies:

• Degreasing cleaning product

• Masking tape and masking paper or plastic sheeting

• Efflorescence blocker

• Roller covers

• Concrete stain in multiple colors

• Concrete sealer

• Vinyl or nitrile gloves

• Protective eyewear

• Protective masks, as recommended by manufacturer

Source: Be Jane

Do your best to remove oil stains with the degreaser, then use the power washer to thoroughly clean the entire surface. Let it completely dry, then sweep off remaining debris or dirt.

Jane tip: If you've just poured the concrete, make sure it has been cured for at least 28 days before beginning any treatment .

Step 3: Cover everything surrounding the driveway with masking paper or plastic sheeting. One of the things we liked about Americrete products was that they are nontoxic and biodegradable, meaning we weren't likely to damage the lawn or nearby plants, which cut down on masking.

Don your protective gear — this is always important, but especially so if you use acid-based stains.

Safety tip: If you choose an acid-based stain, make sure you ventilate, ventilate, ventilate. Wear protective clothing at all times. Use rubber gloves, goggles, thick socks and anything else to keep the stain away from your skin.

Step 4: If your driveway is fairly new and has evidence of efflorescence (a leaching of salts from soils under the driveway up through the concrete, leaving a white, powdery stain), start by applying an efflorescence blocker with a plastic garden sprayer. Work in a simple back-and-forth motion, applying the blocker evenly, then brush it out further with a push broom. Avoid walking on the wet surface until the blocker dries — about an hour.

Step 5: Starting in a corner, begin spraying a smooth coat of stain, using the high-pressure, low-volume sprayer at a distance of about 2 feet. If you want a textured, stone-like look, it will require a multiple-coat approach. Spray on an even base coat layer and let it dry for about an hour, per the manufacturer's instructions.

Jane tip: With different types of stains, you may need to allow up to 24 hours' drying time — and you'll want to keep critters, kids and adults off the surface while it dries. Footprints in wet stain can stay forever.

We continued to spray on successive coats in basically the same way, though each coat was more selectively applied — we spayed some areas more than others. This mottled, "air-brushed" technique is what gave us the rich, textured look of stone.

It's important to let the stain dry, then consider whether the texture and color are coming out right. You can continue adding accents and layers until you get it just right. The technique is similar to faux-painting, in that you are trying to create an un-patterned, natural look.

Step 6: After you're happy with the look of your staining, let it dry for a full 24 hours (again, keep feet off the surface). When it's completely dry, roll on the sealant using a low-nap roller. We recommend a satin finish, which will further darken the stain and help give it a slight sheen. Let it dry.

Jane tip: As with the stains, there are different forms of sealants. Many sealants will result in a slick concrete surface when wet. Look into nonskid or slip-resistant sealers or additives if you have a steep driveway or are concerned about the slick surface.

Congratulations! You've just taken your driveway from gray to gorgeous. Concrete staining is a bit complicated and requires a few tools you may need to rent, but the end effect will give your driveway a whole new attitude.

Be Jane is an occasional home-improvement feature in digs. It's adapted from www.BeJane.com, the online community created by Heidi Baker and Eden Jarrin.

As tools, conditions in the home, materials, products used or the way they are handled can vary widely, in no case will Be Jane or The Seattle Times be liable for personal injury, any property damage or any other loss occurring from the use of this information. The reader is solely responsible to consult with a professional if in doubt.